Embroidery
Process

Florence Vere O’Brien was not only a knowledgeable needlewoman but also an artist of considerable ability. She created all the designs known as Clare Embroidery. Her original inspiration was the bold work of the French peasant embroiderers, suggested to her by Mina Keppie, who worked in Northern France before coming to Ireland.

Florence refined the French theme to reflect the delicate wild flowers of Clare. The fragility of the flowers is captured on the original glazed cotton designs featured in the exhibition. Florence was responsible for choosing all the materials.

The characteristics of Clare Embroidery were the washable materials, which were mainly white cotton or linen, and the coloured threads used—blue and red. The pieces were designed for everyday use and some bedspreads and table runners are still in use, some 100 years later.

The process began using a carved wooden stamp, with ink used to transfer the pattern onto the cotton or linen. This process for transferring the design was soon out of use and a more popular and accessible way came about using carbon paper and a stylus to trace the design onto the fabric.

The class, consisting of between 10 and 27 girls, met every Tuesday at Ballyalla. Here the girls were taught basic stitches. Manuals were used to teach these stitches and a book belonging to Florence Vere O’Brien called “The Embroiderer’s Alphabet” shows the basic stitches for letters, figures, monograms and ornaments. After learning the rudiments the girls passed on to the sample designs. They learnt to trace the designs directly onto the fabric to be embroidered.

Only when the girls could display a high degree of proficiency were they allowed to work on items which were to be sold. The girls were paid the sale price for their pieces, less material costs and expenses. They also kept any prize money they won.

The finished items for sale were children’s frocks, pinafores, aprons, embroidered patchwork bedspreads and panels for firescreens. Smocking was an important feature on many of the garments.